String of bananas (Senecio radicans, also sold as Curio radicans) is a trailing succulent named for its small, curved leaves that really do look like tiny bunches of bananas strung along a thin stem. It’s a close relative of string of pearls and string of dolphins, and it shares their basic care needs — but the elongated, banana-shaped leaves store water a little differently than round pearls, which changes how the plant shows stress and how forgiving it is of a missed watering.

Light

String of bananas wants bright light, and it tolerates more direct sun than many houseplants — a few hours of morning or late-afternoon sun is fine, and an unobstructed south- or west-facing window works well indoors. In lower light the plant doesn’t just grow slowly, it visibly changes shape: the leaves come in smaller and more sparsely spaced along the stem, and new growth stretches thin and pale as it reaches toward the light source. This etiolation is one of the most common complaints with this plant, and more light — not fertilizer — is the only real fix. Once a stem has stretched, it stays that way; new growth from a brighter spot will come in denser, but older leggy growth is best trimmed off.

Watering

Each banana-shaped leaf is a water reservoir, so string of bananas is built for a soak-and-dry routine rather than frequent sips. Let the soil dry out completely — check a couple of inches down, not just the surface — before watering again, then water thoroughly and let it drain fully. During the growing season that’s often every 2-3 weeks in a bright spot; in winter, stretch it out further still. This is the same approach that works for succulents in general: underwatering causes a slow, recoverable shrivel, while overwatering causes fast, often fatal rot. If you’re unsure which problem you’re looking at, overwatering vs. underwatering houseplants walks through how to tell the two apart.

Soil and pot

Use a fast-draining cactus or succulent mix — a standard potting soil holds too much moisture around the roots for too long. A pot with a drainage hole is non-negotiable; without one, excess water has nowhere to go and the base of the stems sits wet, which is where rot typically starts. Terracotta is a good material choice here because it wicks moisture out through its walls and dries faster than plastic or glazed ceramic, giving you a little more margin if you tend to water generously. Because the stems trail rather than climb, a hanging basket or an elevated shelf lets them cascade freely instead of piling up on damp soil, which also helps keep the lower leaves from staying wet against the surface.

Propagation

String of bananas propagates easily from stem cuttings, and it’s the fastest way to fill out a sparse pot. Snip a few inches of healthy stem, let the cut end callous over for a day so it doesn’t rot when it touches soil, then lay the cutting across the surface of dry succulent mix — roots form along the stem wherever it contacts soil, so you don’t need to bury it. Mist lightly every few days until roots take hold and you see new growth, then switch to the normal soak-and-dry watering routine. This surface-laying method is a variation on the general technique covered in how to propagate houseplants from cuttings, adapted for a plant that roots along its length instead of just at the cut end.

Toxicity

String of bananas is toxic to cats and dogs if chewed or eaten, and can cause mild irritation in people too. Like other Senecio species, it contains compounds that typically cause vomiting, drooling, or mouth and skin irritation on contact. Keep hanging pots well out of reach of curious pets, and see pet-safe houseplants for cats and dogs if you want trailing options that are safer to have around animals.

Common problems

Shriveled, flattened, or wrinkled banana leaves mean the plant has used up its stored water and needs a drink. Give the soil a thorough soak — the leaves should plump back up within a day or two if the roots are still healthy.

Soft, mushy, or translucent leaves that split open or drop off in clumps point to overwatering or root rot. Stop watering immediately, confirm the pot and soil mix are actually draining, and let it dry out fully before watering again. If the stems near the soil line are black and mushy, the rot has likely reached the roots — see how to identify and fix root rot for how to salvage what you can.

Thin, stretched stems with small, widely spaced leaves reaching toward the window is etiolation from too little light. Move the plant somewhere brighter as soon as you notice it — new growth will come in fuller and more tightly packed, though the already-stretched sections won’t correct themselves and are best cut back or used to start new cuttings.

Leaves dropping when the plant is bumped or moved is normal for this species; the leaves attach loosely to the stem, similar to a string of pearls or burro’s tail. A few dropped leaves from handling aren’t a sign of a health problem — just try to keep the pot somewhere it won’t be brushed against often.