Ctenanthe, sometimes called the never-never plant or bamburanta, is a close relative of Calathea, Stromanthe, and prayer plants — all members of the Marantaceae family, grown for boldly patterned leaves and a distinctive trick: the leaves rise and fold upward at night and lower again during the day, a movement called nyctinasty. If you’ve grown any of its relatives, Ctenanthe will feel familiar, but it’s generally a bit more forgiving, which makes it a good option if you’ve struggled with the fussier members of this plant family.

How it compares to its relatives

Ctenanthe leaves tend to run more elongated and lance-shaped than the rounder leaves of Calathea, often with feathery herringbone-style patterning in shades of green, silver, and sometimes deep red or purple on the underside. Compared to the stromanthe triostar, which leans heavily on pink and cream variegation, most Ctenanthe varieties keep the color palette more restrained and foliage-focused. And like the prayer plant, it shares that signature nightly leaf movement, just on a plant that’s generally a little sturdier and more tolerant of minor care lapses. If you’ve kept a Calathea alive but found it exhausting, Ctenanthe is worth trying as a lower-maintenance plant with a similar look.

Light

Bright, indirect light is best. Direct sun will bleach or scorch the leaves and fade their patterning, while too little light will cause the plant to grow leggy and lose some of its leaf definition. A spot near an east-facing window, or a few feet back from a south or west window, usually works well.

Watering

Keep the soil evenly moist but not waterlogged, watering again once the top inch has dried out. Ctenanthe is sensitive to letting the soil dry out completely, which shows up quickly as curling or crisping leaf edges, but it’s equally unhappy sitting in soggy soil for long stretches. Consistency matters more than any single watering session.

Water quality

This is one of the traits Ctenanthe shares closely with its Calathea and Stromanthe relatives: it’s sensitive to the chlorine, chloramine, fluoride, and dissolved salts common in tap water, which can build up in the soil and cause crispy brown leaf edges over time even when watering frequency is otherwise fine. Distilled water, rainwater, or tap water left out uncovered overnight to let chlorine dissipate all tend to work better than straight tap water, especially in areas with hard or heavily treated water. See best water for houseplants for a fuller breakdown of which water sources work best and why.

Soil and pot

A light, well-draining potting mix with good moisture retention works well — a standard peat- or coco-coir-based mix amended with perlite strikes a good balance between holding enough moisture and avoiding waterlogging. Make sure the pot has drainage holes; this plant’s sensitivity to soggy soil makes drainage more important than it might seem given how much it likes consistent moisture.

Humidity

Ctenanthe prefers moderate to high humidity, ideally 50% or above. It’s more tolerant of average household humidity than a true Calathea, but leaf edges will still start browning in persistently dry air, particularly near heating vents or air conditioning. A pebble tray, nearby humidifier, or grouping it with other plants can help if your home runs dry.

Toxicity

Ctenanthe is considered non-toxic to cats and dogs, making it a safe choice for pet-friendly homes. See pet-safe houseplants for cats and dogs for more options in the same category.

Common problems

Crispy, browning leaf edges are the most common complaint, and usually trace back to either low humidity or mineral buildup from tap water. Switch to filtered, distilled, or rested tap water and raise humidity before assuming anything else is wrong.

Curling leaves typically mean the plant has gone too dry between waterings, or that humidity has dropped. Check the soil moisture first, then look at humidity if watering seems consistent.

Leaves not rising at night can simply mean the plant is stressed from inconsistent watering, low humidity, or recent transplant shock — the nyctinastic movement tends to be one of the first things to become less pronounced when the plant isn’t fully comfortable, and it typically returns once conditions stabilize.

Faded or washed-out leaf patterning usually points to too much direct light. Move the plant to a spot with brighter but fully indirect light and the next flush of new leaves should come in with better color and pattern.

Fine webbing or stippled, dull-looking leaves can indicate spider mites, which tend to target stressed plants in dry air. Raising humidity is the best prevention, and isolating the plant while you treat it will keep an infestation from spreading to neighboring houseplants.