Rabbit’s foot fern (Davallia fejeensis) gets its name from the fuzzy, brown, finger-like rhizomes that creep over the edge of the pot as the plant matures. That’s not a sign of something wrong — it’s the plant’s defining feature, and once you understand what those rhizomes are doing, the rest of its care falls into place easily.

Light

Bright, indirect light is what this fern wants. A spot near an east-facing window, or a few feet back from a brighter south or west window, works well. Direct sun scorches the delicate, lacy fronds, leaving them bleached or crispy, while too little light produces sparse, weak growth and slows the spread of new rhizomes. If your space runs on the dim side, see how much light houseplants need for ways to judge whether a spot is actually bright enough.

Watering

Let the top inch of soil dry out before watering again, then water thoroughly and let it drain. Rabbit’s foot fern is more forgiving of a missed watering than most ferns — those furry rhizomes store some moisture and energy, giving the plant a buffer that a Boston fern simply doesn’t have. That said, don’t mistake “more forgiving” for “drought-tolerant”: going too long without water will still shrivel the rhizomes and stress the plant, and soil that’s constantly soggy will rot the roots just as fast as it would on any other houseplant.

Humidity

Like most ferns, this one prefers humidity above typical room levels — ideally 50% or higher. Dry air shows up first as browning tips on the fronds, well before the plant looks seriously unwell. A bathroom or kitchen with decent light is a natural fit, or group it with other humidity-loving plants and run a humidifier nearby. For more ways to raise the humidity around it, see how to increase humidity for houseplants.

Soil and pot

Use a loose, fast-draining mix — a standard houseplant soil mix with extra perlite or orchid bark works well, since the rhizomes need air movement around them and the roots don’t tolerate sitting in dense, wet soil. A shallow, wide pot suits this fern better than a deep one, since it naturally grows outward rather than sending roots down. Always use a pot with drainage holes, and don’t be alarmed when rhizomes start climbing over the rim and down the outside of the pot — that’s normal, healthy growth, not the plant trying to escape bad conditions.

Propagation

This is where rabbit’s foot fern stands apart from almost any other houseplant: instead of propagating from a leaf or stem cutting, you propagate from a piece of rhizome. Look for a healthy, firm, several-inch section of rhizome — ideally one with a few small fronds already growing from it — and use clean, sharp scissors or a knife to cut it away from the main plant.

Lay the cut section on top of a moist, well-draining mix (don’t bury it — the rhizome roots from its underside on its own) and pin it down gently with a bent wire or landscape pin so it stays in contact with the soil. Keep the mix consistently moist and the humidity high while it roots, which usually takes several weeks. You’ll know it’s taken when new fronds start pushing up along the pinned section. This is a slower, more hands-off process than propagating houseplants from stem cuttings, but it’s also low-effort — there’s no need for rooting hormone or a jar of water, just patience.

Toxicity

Rabbit’s foot fern is non-toxic to cats and dogs, making it a safe choice if you have pets that like to investigate trailing rhizomes hanging over a shelf or pot rim. For more options along the same lines, see this list of pet-safe houseplants for cats and dogs.

Common problems

• Browning frond tips: almost always low humidity or dry air, especially with heating or AC running. Raise the humidity before assuming the plant needs more water.
• Shriveled, dry rhizomes: a sign the plant has gone too long without water. The rhizomes should feel firm and slightly springy, not thin, papery, or brittle.
• Yellowing fronds: usually overwatering or a pot without adequate drainage. Check that water is actually draining out the bottom and that the pot isn’t sitting in a saucer full of standing water.
• Rhizomes rotting or turning black and mushy: a sign of soil that’s staying wet for too long. Let the mix dry out more between waterings and make sure the pot has good drainage, similar to the fix for a staghorn fern sitting in soil that’s too dense.
• Slow or no new rhizome growth: often just low light or the plant being pot-bound. Move it somewhere brighter first, and only size up the pot once rhizomes have filled the current one.

Give a rabbit’s foot fern bright indirect light, a loose well-draining mix, and room for its rhizomes to spread, and it rewards you with one of the more distinctive, low-fuss ferns you can grow indoors.